Lot 45: AN OTTOMAN TALISMANIC SHIRT WITH QURANIC CALLIGRAPHY AND MAGIC SQUARES.
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A hand-sewn talismanic shirt, also known as a jama, constructed from cream-coloured cotton or linen textile. The garment follows a traditional tunic form with a rounded neckline, short sleeves, and rectangular panels. The entire surface is densely decorated with hand-written Arabic calligraphy applied in black, red, green, and blue inks. The front of the garment features vertical columns of text in a fluid Naskh script, containing verses from the Quran, notably from Surah Muhammad, including the declaration of faith (the Shahada) reading ‘Know that there is no god but Allah’. The back of the shirt displays two polychrome magic squares (Buduh diagrams) on the upper chest, consisting of grids containing letters or numbers intended for spiritual protection. These are flanked by calligraphic frames containing the Basmala (‘In the name of Allah, the Beneficent, the Merciful’) rendered in a stylized, square Kufic-inspired script. Large-scale calligraphic monograms and repeated invocations adorn the sleeves, while the neckline is bordered with fine, compressed cursive script. Small red and green circular motifs are interspersed throughout the text.
H: Approximately 81cm
L: Approximately 81cm
Condition report:
The garment shows significant evidence of age and historical use. There are scattered small holes throughout the textile, notably on the front mid-section and shoulders (photo 1). Significant water staining and dark brown foxing are visible across the upper chest and shoulders on both the front and back (photos 1, 5, and 6). There is some minor bleeding of the red and green pigments into the surrounding fabric (photo 2). The fabric appears stiffened, likely due to the original preparation of the surface for calligraphy. Small scattered dark spots, possibly iron gall ink splatters or foxing, are present across the body (photo 3).
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